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On most cars, the rotor is separate from the hub. Simply slide the rotor off of the lug studs. You may need to remove a set screw and/or use a rubber mallet to loosen the rotor. You may need an impact driver (hammer it while twisting counter-clockwise) to remove a set screw. If the brake rotor and hub are one piece, remove the grease cup, cotter pin and castle nut from the axle to allow removal. Only if necessary, unbolt the pad bracket from the steering knuckle. Some auto parts stores have brake lathes or a small machine shop. Call before starting your job to verify hours; most machine shops are only open until noon on Saturday and are closed on Sunday. Rotor/hub assemblies can be resurfaced ("turned") if they are not badly worn or damaged, but consider replacing them if they are grooved. The shop should refuse to turn them if they are thin or damaged.
Even though the replacement parts may be expensive, especially if you're replacing the hub and its bearings instead of putting the old hub and bearings back on the car. However, not all new rotor/hub assemblies include the bearings (although they may have new races in place, so that you can just "drop in" the new grease-packed bearings). You may have to install races and seals yourself, as well as pack them with grease. So a set of bearings may be a necessary purchase as well. When applicable, this is also a good time to repack your front wheel bearings. Refer to your service manual or lubrication guide for this procedure. You'll need some new cotter pins and wheel bearing grease for this, as well as a pair of needle-nose pliers. Install the new or resurfaced ("turned") rotors in reverse order of how they came off. New rotors have a layer of oil on them to prevent rust while they're on the shelf.
Clean this off with carb/fuel-injector cleaner; it works better than brake cleaner in this case. Reattach the pad bracket. If you are not replacing calipers, skip to the step beginning: Clean the caliper slide pins below. Replacing calipers if necessary: Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is securely closed, especially if you opened it earlier to allow for fluid to expand. Remove the "banjo" bolt holding the brake hose to the caliper. This is a special hollow bolt that allows fluid to flow through it; don't damage it or lose it. Make a note of its position or orientation, you will need to install it on the new caliper in the same orientation to avoid bending and damaging the hose. Drain the fluid from the caliper into a safe container for proper disposal. Notice that the new caliper will come with two brass washers, plus rubber grommets for the slide pins, pad retaining clips (if applicable), possibly new slide pins, and maybe that hollow bolt mentioned above. Make sure that the calipers are installed with the bleeder fittings/screws in the upper or top position.
Reattach the brake hose with a new brass or copper washer installed on both sides of the hose fitting, that the hollow "banjo" bolt goes through. Reusing of the old washers, or failure to put the new ones in the right place will cause the brakes to leak. Tighten the bolt firmly. Compress the caliper piston, or in some cases screw them in if necessary. Yes, some caliper pistons (such as some Nissan) do actually screw in and out. If so, there will be notches for a tool to engage the top of the piston. Pressing that kind of piston in will strip the threads and ruin the calipers and pistons. Using the large C-clamp: if this is the press in kind of piston, take one of the old brake pads and place it in the caliper against the piston to place the C-clamp against. Usually a heavy duty 8" to 10" size (inner measurement) C-clamp will do, (lighter duty clamps will spring, bend or break), slowly and evenly compress the piston back into the caliper.
