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Make sure you have all the necessary tools. There are two bolts that hold the caliper to the pad bracket, and two bolts that hold the pad bracket to the steering knuckle. If you don't have the tools to remove these, now is the time to put the wheels back on and go to the hardware store. You may need both SAE and Metric sizes of wrenches and sockets, as well as bleeder screw wrenches. Removing calipers with hose attached: Remove the caliper from the pad bracket if necessary. Larger car and truck calipers are much more hefty and are bolted in place. The pads may come out with the caliper, or stay in the bracket, depending on the car. Place the caliper on top of the steering knuckle, or hang it with a piece of clothes hanger wire or any other place where it's weight won't be hanging on the brake hose, and will not fall. Remove the pads and inspect them for wear. You may need to siphon out some brake fluid from the master cylinder to accommodate the fluid being forced out (by the brake caliper piston).
You should remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir and cover it with a paper towel or rag to prevent any foreign matter getting in there. Some calipers have pistons that are made of ceramic or other sensitive materials, and merely prying them back with a screwdriver can crack them and require replacing the entire caliper. Consider using a C-clamp or piece of wood to force the piston back and allow the pads to be freed, as described below in installing new calipers. If either pad is down to the metal pins or backing, you'll need to machine (turn) or replace the rotors. This is also a good time to compare the wear pattern of the brakes on the left side of the car to the ones on the right side. If there is a vast difference, you'll need to replace the calipers or rotors. Some rotors easily slide off from the wheel lug bolts, but some are made into the wheel-hub and will require getting into the wheel bearings and grease repacking see below.
Apply anti-squeal paste to the backing of the new brake pads, but do not install them yet. Keep fluid and lubricants off of the brake pad material. Some cars, especially Ford Explorers/Mountaineers, have special lubricants on the caliper moving parts, and this lubricant cannot easily be obtained separately (ask for a heat resistant grease made for brakes parts). Try not to remove any of this where applicable. If these parts are dry and not lubricated, consider replacing the caliper/etc, as you will probably other damage or signs of problems as noted above. Inspect the brake rotors: If there are any grooves, or excessive glazing (glossiness), remove them for resurfacing (called "turning") or replacement. Inspect the brake hoses: If they are leaking by the fittings or damaged, they'll need replacing - but that is outside the scope of this article. If you are only installing brake pads, skip to the step beginning: Clean the caliper slide pins below. Remove brake rotors if turning or replacing them.
