Installing new construction windows in an existing home may sound like an intimidating task. But if you follow these step-by-step instructions, you'll be a window installation wiz in no time. This tutorial is for installing windows with integral nailing flanges with sheetrock return interiors. Wood windows with brickmould or flanged windows with wood interior casing have a slightly different process. The basics are the same however. So let's get started. Remove all nails between your cut and the edge of the siding. Remove the old siding keeping as much intact as possible. You may wish to re-use it later. You should now be able to see the entire window and flange with securing nails exposed. Begin removing all nails from the existing window's nailing flange. I usually pull the bottom and sides first and finish with the top. You should probably have someone assist you once the final nail is pulled to keep the window from falling on you. Remove the old window from the rough opening.
A gentle nudging might be needed, but the unit should come out easily. Measure the distance from the backside of the new window's nailing flange to the edge of the new window's frame. Using your tape measure, mark this distance on the sheetrock at various points and mark a line with a straight edge. With your straight edge as a guide, score the line a few times with your utility knife. Remove the excess sheetrock from all sides and clean up the edges. With assistance, (and the window locked) center the new window in the rough opening and check for square. This is done by placing your tape measure on the top left outside corner of the window frame and measuring the distance to the bottom right corner. Next, take a similar measurement from the top right outside corner to the bottom left corner. These two measurements should be within 1/8" of each other. If not, you'll have to adjust accordingly by shifting the window right or left in the opening. I tend to shift in increments of 1/8" with good success. Once the unit is square, soft nail the top left corner to secure.
NOTE: DO NOT HARD SET ANY NAILS UNTIL THE WINDOW IS PLUMB, LEVEL, AND SQUARE! With the 2 foot level, check the sill plate for level and shim if necessary. Check for plumb on the side you soft nailed and adjust accordingly. Check for plumb on the right side and adjust accordingly. Once both sides are plumb and the sill level, you can soft nail the sill. I usually put nails in each corner and the center. NOTE: Chances are pretty good if you properly squared the window, the sides and sill will be plumb and level. Recheck both sides for plumb, the sill for level, and the unit for square. Once all the measurements are correct, you can hard set each nail and add additional nails. Nail every 8" on each side, every 6" on the sill, and allow the top to float. With window tape, cover the new flange and extend to the edge of old siding. Nail into place, either new siding (ripped to size with your table saw), or the existing siding if not overly damaged, and install over the new window's flange to the edge of the existing siding. Caulk any major voids.
0 of 8192 characters usedPost CommentNo HTML is allowed in comments, but URLs will be hyperlinked. Comments are not for promoting your articles or other sites. This is the application everybody desires to have as they go about their daily activities. It follows the rugged sea-coast and has a lot of areas to park and take walks or fly a kite in the sea breeze. It also had Bluetooth 2.1 support and the ability to search all saved SMS and MMS. The article speaks about the various ways to simplify our lives with the help of mobile apps. I am replacing all the windows in my home in a similar manner. My question is, what do you do about foam insulation between the window frame and the rough opening. I would probably go a little wider than the original brick mould just to ensure your vinyl siding will fit. It's always better the cut it back than to be short.
